Scotland is an ideal vacation spot for those looking for a unique way to disconnect from day-to-day life. As a country that has miles of iconic driving routes, and ribbons of breathtaking coastline, a holiday in Scotland promises visitors a restorative experience in a place like no other.
Whilst our favourite parts of Scotland are the stunningly beautiful highlands and islands, we always recommend starting or ending your trip with a few days in wonderful Edinburgh. This ancient yet vibrant city has a rich and fascinating history but also offers some of the best food and culture in the UK.
edinburgh – what’s it all about?
Whilst today, Edinburgh is both the cultural and political capital of Scotland, this ancient city has a long and interesting history.
In our guide to Edinburgh, we will discuss how to make the most of your time in this city.
edinburgh – a brief history
Whilst today, Edinburgh is both the cultural and political capital of Scotland, this ancient city has a long and interesting history.
early formation of edinburgh
Over 350 million years ago, glaciers moved and eroded the landscape to form what is today known as Arthur’s Seat, an extinct volcano located east of today’s city centre. It was here that Celtic tribes became Edinburgh’s first occupants. The city began to take shape when the Goddodin, descendants of the Brittonic tribes that once fought the Romans, built a small hillfort. Named “Dun Eiden,” meaning “the fort on the hill slope,” the fort was captured by invading Angles in 638, who renamed it “Eiden Burh.”
construction of edinburgh castle & the royal mile
Around 500 years later, King Malcolm III built Edinburgh Castle in 1130, with his wife Queen Margaret building a chapel within its walls and this remains the oldest building in the city to this day and is at the top of “the Royal Mile” in what is now known as Old Town. It’s here in the 13th century that the English King Edward I captured the castle, a tale famously portrayed in the epic film Braveheart. After 18 years, the English were finally kicked out in 1314. Edinburgh Castle is just one of many unmissable castles in Scotland.
edinburgh named capital of scotland
In 1437, Edinburgh became Scotland’s capital, replacing the previous capital of Scone. Despite its small size, the growing population results in vertical expansion; houses with an ever-increasing number of floors are built as a result, sometimes exceeding seven floors in height. Some of the finest examples remain around the Grassmarket today.
enlightenment & industrial boom
In 1706, the Treaty of Union united Scotland and England under the Unified Kingdom of Great Britain. The resulting “Enlightenment”, a period where vast numbers of buildings were built, saw the city boom as a centre for banking and finance. The creation of new buildings carries well on into the 1800s, making Edinburgh one of the most architecturally impressive cities in the world, a reputation that continues to this day.
new town is born
New Town isn’t very new. The initial plan for Edinburgh’s New Town was approved by the City Council in 1767, and is the largest complete example of town planning from the Georgian period anywhere in the world. Its mixture of classical architecture, grand squares and terraces, gardens and secluded lanes, means that a walk through its streets is a journey back in time to an age of elegance.
The main architectural highlights of New Town include Charlotte Square, designed by the architect Robert Adam in 1791, is regarded as an architectural masterpiece. Here you can visit the Georgian House and gain some insights into daily life from 200 years ago.
In nearby George Street the Assembly Rooms, which date from 1787, is still used for concerts, dancing and entertainment. At the opposite end of George Street is St Andrew Square, where the gardens are now open to the public.
must-see attractions
With such a rich history, there are plenty of attractions to visit during your trip to Edinburgh. An Edinburgh walking tour is a fantastic way to take in the highlights with a knowledgeable local guide.
princes street gardens
A stroll through Princes Street Gardens is also a must for visitors. Once the location of the Nor’ Loch, it is now a peaceful green space dividing the Old and New Towns. Visitors can climb the 287 steps to the top of the Scott Monument for a unique view across the rooftops of the Old and New Towns. New Town is also a lovely place for shopping.
national art gallery
Housing Scotland’s national collection of fine art, the exhibitions at the National Art Gallery span from the Renaissance right up to the end of the 19th century. Alongside international classics like Van Gogh and Raphael, it also proudly displays the works of Scottish artists like McTaggart and Wilkie.
royal mile
The Royal Mile is an infamous route stretching through the city centre. At one end of the mile, you’ll find Edinburgh Castle, sat on the top of an extinct volcano, the castle is home to the Honours of Scotland, the oldest crown jewels in the UK. Pass through the streets of Edinburgh and make your way down the Royal Mile to the Palace of Holyroodhouse.
The Palace of Holyroodhouse is a massive royal residence dating back to the 17th century where you can see a magnificent exterior and detailed apartments inside. Inside, you’ll find a Baroque ceiling and Italian paintings on the wall, one of which dates back to 1550. On the grounds, you’ll find additional sights to explore, like the statue of Edward VII. One of the most iconic aspects of this palace is the intricately designed Forecourt Fountain. The palace is the King’s official residence when he’s in Scotland, but is still open to visitors all year round.
royal botanic gardens
If you’re looking for a slightly quieter guide to Edinburgh, the Royal Botanic Gardens are the perfect spot to spend a peaceful afternoon. Located a 20-minute walk from the city centre, these gardens span 70 acres of green space and contain 100,000 varieties of different plants.
heritage
Part of what makes Edinburgh such a unique city to visit is its rich history. Here are some historical sites and hidden gems to be on the lookout for when you visit Edinburgh.
greyfriars bobby
In front of the entrance to Greyfriars Kirk, you’ll find the monument of Bobby, the famous Skye Terrier dog. Famed for having spent 14 years guarding the grave of his owner in the Kirk, Bobby is now immortalised in a statue and represents one of the most well-known stories in Scotland.
the street floor
As well as checking out the tall buildings in Old Town, it’s worth casting your eye where you’re walking too. Along the streets of Edinburgh, you’ll find clues to its historic past. On some streets, you’ll see brass bricks outlining the locations of market stalls, or “luckenbooths” as they were historically referred to. You might also spot a shiny brass “S” along the street floor every now and then. These letters were used to mark the boundary of a 5-mile area known as the Abbey Sanctuary, where people could seek refuge from debt collectors.
the venetian gothic palace of the scottish national portrait gallery
One of the city’s top attractions. Its galleries illustrate Scottish history through paintings, photographs and sculptures, putting faces to famous names from Scotland’s past and present, from Robert Burns, Mary, Queen of Scots, and Bonnie Prince Charlie to actor Sean Connery, comedian Billy Connolly and poet Jackie Kay.
the scottish national gallery.
Designed by William Playfair, this imposing classical building with its Ionic porticoes dates from 1850. Its octagonal rooms, lit by skylights, have been restored to their original Victorian decor of deep green carpets and dark red walls. The gallery houses an important collection of European art from the Renaissance to the post-Impressionism era, with works by Verrocchio (Leonardo da Vinci’s teacher), Tintoretto, Titian, Holbein, Rubens, Van Dyck, Vermeer, El Greco, Poussin, Rembrandt, Gainsborough, Turner, Constable, Monet, Pissarro, Gauguin and Cézanne.
pop culture
As well as being home to plenty of historical sites dating back to mediaeval times, Edinburgh has also served as the backdrop to some important works of popular culture.
harry potter
Whilst you won’t find Hogwarts itself within the city, Edinburgh did play a significant role in the life of Harry Potter’s author, J K Rowling. Stop in at The Elephant Cafe to see where Rowling worked on the first books, or visit the graveyard to spot the stones where she found inspiration for her character names. There are plenty of Harry Potter-themed guides to Edinburgh, to make sure you don’t miss a single Potter location in the city.
one day
Netflix’s hit series One Day filmed some key scenes throughout the show in the city of Edinburgh, where the lead couple in the show met. Whether you take a hike up Arthur’s Seat like Dex and Em did, visit the Old College Quad at the University of Edinburgh, or stop by the Vennel Steps, there are plenty of places to recreate scenes from the show.
food and drink
Here are some of the local food, dishes and drinks to look out for during your stay in Edinburgh.
haggis, neeps and tatties
For an authentic flavour of Edinburgh, a traditional dish of haggis served with neeps and tatties (mashed potato and swede) is essential. As the national dish of Scotland, haggis consists of sheep’s pluck, onion, oatmeal, suet and spices, all cooked in an animal stomach.
cranachan
For a sweeter taste of Scotland, try a serving of Cranachan, and experience an authentic Edinburgh dessert. Cranachan is traditionally made from raspberries and Scottish oats, served with cream and a healthy splash of whisky.
whisky
With Holyrood Distillery located in the heart of Edinburgh, and plenty of distilleries no more than a half-hour drive from the city, there are plenty of local glasses of whisky to try on your vacation in Edinburgh. As well as a wealth of distilleries, Edinburgh also offers a range of whisky experiences to choose from, in addition to traditional whisky bars. For those keen to explore beyond the city, our curated Highland whiskies experience takes in some of Scotland’s finest distilleries.
irn-bru
Often referred to as ‘Scotland’s other national drink’, Irn-Bru is a carbonated soft drink that has a unique, tangy flavour. So loved across Scotland, reportedly a can is sold every 20 seconds across the country.
our restaurant recommendations
For restaurants, as you would expect there are so many great options. Edinburgh is a destination in its own right for food lovers, making it the perfect starting point for a gastronomic holiday through Scotland. Below are some of our favourites:
best restaurant for seafood: ondine
If you’re looking to sample high-quality seafood during your stay in Edinburgh, a visit to Ondine is essential. With views that overlook the Royal Mile, here you can enjoy freshly caught and perfectly prepared local seafood.
best restaurant for special occasions: the kitchin
This is our personal favourite restaurant in Edinburgh. Located in the suburb of Leith, The Kitchin has a Michelin-star, owing to its French twists on Scottish produce.
best restaurant for sushi: kanpai
An award-winning restaurant offering top-quality Japanese delicacies, Kanpai has a selection of private rooms for a more intimate dining experience.
authentic scottish dining
If you’re looking for restaurants featuring Scottish ingredients and food, we would recommend:
best for scottish “tapas” (i.e. small plates): amber
This restaurant serves traditional Scottish dishes with a modern, innovative twist. You have to try their unique haggis recipe, hailed by many as the best in Edinburgh.
best for scottish fine dining: angels with bagpipes
In the heart of Old Town you’ll find this modern Scottish fine dining option, serving a combination of small and larger plates, inspired by traditional Scottish recipes.
best for scottish entertainment (i.e. nightly bagpipes and ceilidh dancing): ghillie dhu
Ghillie Dhu showcases some of the best produce suppliers in Scotland through its mouth-watering menu. But it’s not just the food that will have you raving. Enjoy your meal accompanied by live music and even a Ceilidh dance.
best for lunch
cafe st honore
A much loved bistro serving classic French dishes made with Scottish ingredients
wedgewood
Incredibly good value lunch menu featured local and foraged ingredients by this imaginative local chef
colonnades
Right in an old law library take traditional afternoon tea instead of lunch – the best in Edinburgh
pubs and bars
For drinks, our favourites are:
best for cocktails: the voyage of buck
Inspired by the fictional traveller, William “Buck” Clarence, this cocktail bar has a menu spanning five different cities, to represent the different flavours Buck would have encountered on his travels.
best for beer: the salt horse
This relaxed bar has a rotation of 14 draught lines, as well as a choice of 200 different bottled beers.
best pub for atmosphere: the cafe royal circle bar
As well as offering an extensive ale and whisky menu, The Cafe Royal Circle bar sits within a tiled Victorian building, bringing a historic twist to your evening.
shopping
If you’re looking to do some shopping, see our list of favourites:
grassmarket
Edinburgh’s Grassmarket and Victoria Street are the perfect places to spend the day, exploring independent shops and fashion boutiques, from cutting-edge designer to retro and vintage. With its cobbled and twisted appearance, many Harry Potter fans think the area’s delightful Victoria Street resembles the book’s magical Diagon Alley. Our favourites are The Whisky Shop, which stocks a range of Scottish and worldwide whiskies and if you’re looking for some iconic traditional Scottish tweed? Be sure to pay Walker & Slater a visit. And don’t forget Hawico, formerly known as The Hawick Cashmere Company. Hawico has been making fine Scottish cashmere knits since 1874.
royal mile
Just off Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, take a stroll down St Mary’s Street, which joins the Royal Mile at the junction with the Canongate. Here you’ll find small artisan shops such as Mackenzie Leather, makers of luxury bags; Scottish Textiles Showcase, specialists in luxury Scottish homeware and accessories; Gordon Nicholson Kiltmakers and Kilberry Bagpipes. After all that shopping, why not treat yourself to a delicious ice cream from the popular Moo Pie Gelato.
old town
The major department store is Harvey Nichols, a British institution, is the place to go in Edinburgh for a high-end department store experience. Come for the British designers, stay for the Champagne and sweets in the aptly named Chocolate Lounge.
St James’ Quarter is a game-changing new heart for Edinburgh, offering the biggest retail and leisure district Scotland has ever seen. The Galleria features an enviable line-up of brands, many of which have arrived in Scotland for the first time.
beyond the city
Edinburgh serves as a great starting point for adventures into the heart of Scotland. From intriguing locations right on the doorstep of the city, to a little further afield, let’s take a look at some of the places you could explore on a day trip from Edinburgh.
leith
As a suburb of Edinburgh, Leith is right on the doorstep of the city and offers a slightly slower pace than the capital. Leith is known as a historic brewing quarter and offers some great beers as well as some top-quality restaurants.
newhaven
Two miles from the city centre lies Newhaven, a village tucked away in the harbour of the Firth of Forth. If there’s one thing we recommend coming to Newhaven for, it’s the fish and chips. Stop in at The Fishmarket to try fresh, locally caught seafood, cooked to perfection.
banuchburgh
Just 45 minutes from Edinburgh you’ll find Banuchburgh, home of both historic and pop culture sites. Here you can commemorate the battle that took place during the first Scottish War of Independence. In Banuchburgh you’ll also find locations which appeared in the hit show Outlander. For a full rundown of filming sites, read our guide to Outlander filming locations in Scotland.
got time for a longer day trip?
Other Scottish cities are surprisingly quick and easy to reach within a day’s trip from Edinburgh. The city of Glasgow sits just one hour’s drive away, and St Andrews is only a 90-minute drive, with its world-famous golf courses and even its own nuclear bunker.
For visitors exploring Edinburgh with Celtic Routes, the Hotel du Vin Edinburgh is our handpicked accommodation in the city. Located in the heart of the Old Town, it’s the perfect base for exploring the castle, Royal Mile, and surrounding attractions before setting off on your wider Scottish adventure.
example itinerary
Not sure where to get started to experience the best of Edinburgh? Take a look at our example itinerary.
- Start with a walking tour of the Old Town, finishing at Edinburgh Castle. Or, navigate The Royal Mile under your own steam.
- Visit the Scottish Textiles showcase, and see the finest selection of Edinburgh wool and tartans.
- Stop in at the National Museum of Scotland, or the National Art Gallery for a spot of culture, and enjoy the artefacts and works of art from Scotland’s heritage and beyond.
- Stroll through New Town, and enjoy the Georgian Quarter, and the Royal Botanic Gardens.
- Hike up Arthur’s Seat, for some of the best views over the city and surrounding areas.
- If you’ve got time, finish the day by catching the sunset from the top of Carlton Hill.
practical information
travelling to edinburgh
Edinburgh is an incredibly well-connected city, and very easy to get to from both within the UK and from abroad. Edinburgh has its own airport, just 8 miles from the city centre, as well as a train station with a line with regular services to and from London. Celtic Routes can arrange vehicle delivery to your Edinburgh hotel or the airport, so your self-drive holiday begins the moment you arrive.
local currency
The currency of Scotland is the British Pound (GBP). Scotland does print its own notes and coins, but both British and Scottish notes will be accepted in Edinburgh.
weather
One of the things Edinburgh is most famous for is its unpredictable weather. Whatever season you’re travelling to visit Edinburgh in, be sure to bring a range of different clothing, and check the weather forecast as you pack for your trip.
reduced hours on sundays
A lot of the shops, restaurants and attractions operate on reduced hours on Sundays. If you’re planning a trip to Edinburgh over the weekend, look ahead to see whether the attraction you want to visit will be open when you’re planning on visiting.
avoid the edinburgh fringe
Every year in the month of August, the city of Edinburgh plays host to the incredible Edinburgh Fringe Festival. Whilst this annual festival is an undoubted highlight in the theatre calendar, it does attract upwards of 3 million people each year. This means that accommodation in Edinburgh is normally fully booked throughout August, with prices for rooms increasing too.
Our guide to Edinburgh has barely scratched the surface of the hidden gems that are waiting to be discovered in the city. Whether you’re spending a week exploring Scotland’s capital city, or visiting Edinburgh before you venture further afield into the Scottish countryside, there are endless adventures to be had in the city of Edinburgh.
commonly asked questions
Is tap water safe to drink?
Yes, the tap water available in Scotland and Edinburgh is safe to drink, and some of the cleanest in the UK.
What currency can I use in Edinburgh?
The currency of Scotland is the British Pound (GBP).
Can you use public transport in Edinburgh?
Whilst there are public transport networks in operation throughout Edinburgh, we would recommend using either Uber or black cabs if you’re looking to get across town. Having said that, the trams from the airport are excellent, and it takes less than 30 minutes to get from the airport to the city centre using the tram.
Can I drive around Edinburgh?
The centre of Edinburgh itself is quite compact and easy to get around on foot. If you do have a car, it might be best put to use exploring the areas surrounding Edinburgh.
Is the New Town more modern than the Old Town?
Historically, yes, the New Town was built more recently than the Old Town, which was constructed in the Middle Ages. However, the New Town was still built in the 1700s, so it’s not a super modern and up-to-date part of the city.
further reading
- Harry Potter walking tour
- Our full guide to visiting Scotland
- Five most iconic driving routes of Scotland
Want to start planning your trip? Enquire now.
